By Robert Thomason
When Yao Afantchao first left his village in Togo for the United States relatives and friends showered him with gifts of local
foods so that he would not be without his native diet. Loaded with mangoes, the peanuts of his region and dried delicacies he crossed the Atlantic.
But when the US Customs Service inspected his bags at JFK Airport, his first lesson in U.S. food economics and practices was a shock. The foodstuff of Afantchao’s homeland was confiscated.
“That’s it; my life is gone,” Afantchao said recalling his feelings of the day and that loss. “The trip I made from New York to Philadelphia was the longest of my life.”
Since witnessing that initial clash between authorities and the food he loves, Afantchao’s stories about food have transformed as the nation’s population has become more diverse. He now works as an ethnic and specialty crop specialist with the University of the District of Columbia, helping immigrants find the foods they prefer and the local farmers to produce it.
As people arrive in the United States from other countries, they naturally bring their appetites with them. Although Afantchao in time re-acquired much of his accustomed diet, there was a transition period.
“We like to find our own food,” he said of the immigrant experience at the Feb. 20 Rooting DC conference. “People like to give you pizza and take you to McDonald’s. That is nice for a day. But ethnic food is not just food to the immigrant. It is also a source of culture.”
His eyes and palate have been on the look-out for these foods. “When I go to a home and they serve garden eggs, I am going back to that home,” quipped Afantchao, a large-framed man who sports a mustache and goatee around his ever-present smile.
As a community educator he travels widely in the region, from urban communities to rural Southern Maryland. He acts as a link between those willing to pay for familiar fare and the farmers who do or might produce it. One farm family he met was initially skeptical of planting crops they had never tasted and that had exotic names; 19 years later the farm is making money providing the specialty produce that immigrants and native-born consumers enjoy at their tables or in restaurants.
“Our foods are comfort foods,” Afantachao said. “In the United States, you are always willing to try something new. You are brave people.”
Working through UDC’s cooperative extension service and its agricultural experimentation service, Afantachao was on the team that helped determine a good choice of crops for this segment of the market. He mentioned a few main ones at the Rooting DC conference.
* Sawa-Sawa — A sorrel plant, or edible hibiscus, shic is good in salads. The red bud version makes a good tea.
* Jute leaf — a leafy green
* Avuvo — A plant in the Amara family that is expensive in Africa.
* Njamma-Njamma — A leafy green. Often outside Africa local greens, such as collards, are substituted and a dish by this name is prepared in West African fashion.
* Water leaves — good in stews with meat or fish
* Gboma – in the eggplant family
* Assorted hot peppers — Popular in many cultures
* Garden eggs – another eggplant
Thomason is the publisher of GlobalResourcesNews.com, a site about ecology and economics.
Big thanks and photo credit go to Beverlie Lord of Satsun Photography for the image above.
Cross-posted from Field to Fork Network.

I also learned that as disconnected as Capitol Hill may be from the rest of the District of Columbia and the country at large, that optimism, transparency, accountability, innovation, responsibility, and community exists at the level of grassroots food systems. Such values provide the root base not only for healthy produce and stewardship, but healthy societies and healthy ecologies.
Joe brings hands on experience to his perspective at the conference. He has mentored a number of students interested in urban agriculture worldwide, including architecture students working with food- and agriculture-related design. Joe also co-curated the traveling exhibition: 



DC’s 

